Woody and I recently got to know the Mana Pools area a little better when we were invited on a couple of Familiarisation trips to Mwinlilunga and Kavinga Safari Camps. These 2 lodges are situated in different areas of the Mana Pools National Park, and therefore offer a perfect opportunity for a combination package tour, where guests get to see 2 completely different aspects of the park.
Mwinilunga is located at the old Trichelia Camp, on the banks of the Zambezi River. Kavinga is much further inland, near the southern boundary, overlooking the dry riverbed of the Ruckomechi River, against the backdrop of the Zambezi Escarpment (about 5kms before the second boom, for those of you who are regular Mana Pools visitors).
What a luxury it was when it came time for Woody and I to load up and head to Mana Pools without having to pack the entire household, just to go camping (including baboon and hyena proofing equipment). We had chosen the fully inclusive option for Mwinilunga, but this camp does offer self-catering and half-catering options too. We arrived at Mwinilunga just in time for our professional guide, Colin, to take us for sundowners just out of camp, at a stunning spot overlooking an island in the Zambezi River, nothing better than a couple ice cold gin and tonics to sooth a parched throat after a long, dusty drive.
Little did we know when we were invited to Mwinilunga, that we would be sharing the camp with a group of life long old friends, celebrating the very special occasion of a 50th wedding anniversary. We were so touched to be welcomed into this group as family. They are all Zimbabwean, highly successful, and although they could have had their pick of Safari Camps in which to go to throughout the whole of Zimbabwe, it was very telling they choose to come back to Mwinilunga, year after year, and then again for this once in a lifetime occasion.
Tess is a phenomenal cook, and knowing this group from previous visits, she had pulled out all the stops to ensure their meals were unique and unforgettable. I was blown away when passing through the kitchen to see the chef pouring an entire bottle of white wine over a huge, whole salmon in preparation for dinner. It turned out that Tess knew our friends penchant for salmon, had specifically organised for this huge salmon to be flown up from Johannesburg, for their Golden Wedding Anniversary dinner. In fact, Tess made sure that they had salmon for nearly every meal, whether it was salmon quiche for brunch or smoked salmon snacks with their sundowners. I simply had to walk away when I saw that pudding was “death by chocolate!”
While Tess was supervising in the kitchen, Dave was keeping the guests entertained with his usual wit and endless stories of the bush. There is never a dull moment in camp, and while we all relaxed, it wasn’t long before a lone bull elephant camp up to a pan at the back of the camp to have a drink. Sadly, he was limping, so Dave and his son-in-law Kevin (who is also a professional guide) took photos to pass onto National Parks to investigate the situation further. While waiting for our next activity, we took the time to get to know Tess’s son Andrew a little better, what an amazing chap. He is passionate and knows a lot about the bush, and his artwork is on display around the camp. Everyone loves Andrew.
After game drives and walks everyone retired to the central area to catch up with their experiences of the day. Sunsets overlooking the Zambezi River and mountains in Zambia are breath-taking from this location. We were lucky enough to be in one of the tented rooms overlooking the river, but the other rooms are just as lovely as you have a wonderful view of the surrounding open bushland, and a better view of the various wildlife coming down to the river. There are 10 en-suite tented rooms in total, and 3 communal shower ablutions, with the biggest selection of luxury toiletries I’ve seen in a camp, nothing better than having an open air shower while watching the Zambezi River flow by.
While researching Mwinilunga, 2 things kept being mentioned about the camp: firstly the outstanding menu and variety of food cooked out in the middle of the bush and secondly the very warm nature of the hosting family, Dave, Tess and Andrew. Mwinilunga lived up to both of these in style.
Next we moved on to Kavinga Safari Camp, and again, perfect timing when we arrived for afternoon tea and homemade carrot cake (my hubby has a fondness for anything sweet!) We were met by the camp management couple, Siraaj and Caitlin, just before they departed with a group for a game drive. After our dusty drive they guessed correctly that we would like to take a load off and relax in camp before sundowners and dinner. We were left in the very professional hands of Luke, a learner guide, who was extremely knowledgeable and informative about the many questions I asked him about the lodge and surrounding areas. He showed us around the camp, and we thought the Hide made to look like a termite mound was a very clever adaptation. From this location you can watch the wildlife drinking at eye/toe level, a huge hit with photographers.
Luke then left us to settle into our room, which is one of 7 built up on stilts on a cliff overlooking the dry riverbed and a pan. During the dry season, this is the only water source for miles around, and so the game viewing becomes even better. Our room was extremely comfortable, with one of the hottest and best showers I’ve ever had!
When it came time to be escorted to the lodge for sundowners, it was just as well that Luke came to fetch us, as there was a friendly visitor between our room and the lodge, Morgan the elephant! It never ceases to amaze me how such large animals make so little noise. Morgan had come to have a snack on his favourite acacia tree, which just happens to be located off the bottom deck of the lodge. Everyone was very calm and we had a good 20 minutes watching Morgan stuff his face with pods. At one point he pulled a branch down a little too far, and a fork was seen toppling off the top deck where our dinner table had been laid out. After an initial inspection, Morgan decided it wasn’t edible and left it where it fell, to be rescued later by a member of staff. I wonder how many other utensils Morgan has had a good sniff at in the past?
Dinner was a chatty affair after the excitement of Morgan, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the 3 course meal provided. We were impressed to see how the staff and management had all dressed up for dinner and waited on us hand and foot. We felt very spoilt. After dinner we all retired to the fire pit where stories were exchanged, as people got to know their fellow guests from around the world that were staying at the lodge at the time.
After a good night’s sleep, everyone was up early as noone wanted to miss out on either the game drive or game walk activities. Woody and I went on the game walk, with Siraaj, in which he took us to the biggest baobabs growing not too far from camp. It was a thoroughly enjoyable walk, with Siraaj pointing out lots of interesting aspects of the bush. Our heart rates did increase when we came across the VERY fresh dung of an old buffalo “dagga boy” – it was so fresh it was still warm to the touch, don’t ask who found that out! It sure kept us on our toes after that. We had no sooner arrived back in camp when the game drive vehicle radioed to let us know they had spotted 2 lionesses not far from the lodge. After a quick loo break we were all loaded into a vehicle and were off, no one hungry for breakfast anymore. And that is how we ended our stay at Kavinga Safari Camp – spotting two lionesses not 10 minutes from camp lazing in the dry riverbed. What a wonderful sighting and way to end off.
As always, when in Mana Pools, we had made memories to last a lifetime, one of the highlights being the sighting of 2 young leopards on the main dirt road into Mana Pools. They were very difficult to see in the dry bush with their camouflage markings, but when they crossed the road in front of us we got a nice view of them. Another highlight being a very young elephant calf with his family, still learning how to use his trunk, he was just a delight to watch.
Whether you are sleeping at Mwinilinga with your head literally a couple of meters from the mighty Zambezi River or high up in your room overlooking the Ruckomechi riverbed, a holiday at either of these stunning locations should be on everyone’s “To Do List.”
Mwinilunga Safari Camp
My personal rating of:
*Best bush cuisine
**Best Family atmosphere
Kavinga Safari Camp
My personal rating of:
*Best Hot showers
**Most enthusiastic and knowledgeable learner guide: Luke
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