Changa Safari Camp

A couple of months ago a group of Zimbabwean agents were invited on a familiarisation trip to Changa Safari Camp – a very brave undertaking by the camp, knowing that the majority of the agents were women. Lesser companies would have immediately cancelled when the tally of ladies came to 12, with only 2 men thrown in for good measure! Luckily they didn’t and what ensued was a wonderful 2 nights, with a passionate group of agents, learning all there was to know about one of our most beautifully located lodges in Kariba.

Most of the agents were transferred from Harare to Marineland Harbour, where Avoca Transfers did a great job getting us across the lake – it was a very smooth crossing, taking only about 40 minutes. As soon as you step on to the transfer boat, your holiday has begun; there is nothing better than sitting back and relaxing, while watching the waters fly by. For those not wanting to brave the roads or boat crossing, there is an airstrip on Fothergill Island, and Changa will organise a transfer from the airstrip to camp, about a 10 minute boat trip. We were met upon arrival at Changa by the management couple, Bruce and Sarah. The multitude of bags very professionally sorted and delivered to the allocated rooms.

I was very impressed with the beautiful rooms, each one overlooking the lake, and depending on the lake level you can actually fall asleep to the sound of the water lapping the shore. My favourite features were the outdoor shower and bathtub! I ensured I spent at least one afternoon lazing in a bubble bath with a good book, gin and tonic, looking out over the water. There is a discreet water spray system set up just off the bedroom patio area, these are switched on to cool the patio area and have the added bonus of drawing in the bird-life. In no time at all there were many different species of birds fluttering in and out of the bushes and trees next to the rooms. A bird lover’s paradise.

Breakfasts and lunches are served in the central dining area. All the meals we had over the 2 days were absolutely scrumptious, with imported cheese and fresh seasonal vegetables. Changa makes a point of trying to serve their 3 course dinners at a different location each evening of your stay. Our first evening meal was laid out on the beach below the front deck, near the fire pit area. And for our second evening we were told we were in for a surprise – and indeed we were, when we were loaded into the game vehicles at sunset and taken to the floodplain near camp. The staff really pulled out all the stops and we enjoyed a moonlit 3 course meal under the stars, literally on the shoreline of Lake Kariba.

There are plenty of activities to choose from whilst at Changa. I tried to ensure I participated in as many as possible. Bruce is a fantastic guide for both the game drives and guided walks. We had an exciting early morning game walk, where we got up very close to a couple of elephants in the thick bush not too far from camp. Seeing an elephant from ground level, is a lot different than from a vehicle, I was a little nervous to see how we would all all react when told to be still and not run, everyone held their nerve and listened to Bruce, now we have an unforgettable memory to share. We also had a wonderful time on the game drive, viewing various wildlife on the lake shores, from the safer vantage point of the vehicle. Sunset drinks and snacks were laid out on a camping table at the best possible position for the stunning Kariba sunsets. The perfect way to end a day.

Being a mostly ladies group, I was quite surprised to find out how many other ladies shared a passion for fishing. I wondered what our fishing guide Kenny thought when 5 of us headed down to the boat one morning, luckily for him we were all able to put our own worms on without much drama. Sadly the fishing wasn’t great, but the nice thing about being out on the lake is that you never know what you are going to see. About half way through our fishing excursion we noticed a huge Martial Eagle swoop down right in front of us and try to catch a leguaan. We were amazed to see the leguaan stand up on his hind legs and fight off the eagle! While the eagle stood on the bank, looking a bit put out at not catching his mid-morning snack, a large male baboon suddenly appeared and chased the eagle off! We had noticed him acting as lookout for his troop earlier in the morning, and he obviously took his role seriously, as he chased that eagle from tree to tree for at least 2 kilometres. What an unusual sighting for us to have witnessed while just out for a gentle spot of fishing.

On our last afternoon, a group of us chose to head out on the boat to see the Sanyati Gorge. Although I have lived in Zimbabwe most of my life, I have only ever been up the Gorge once, so I was very keen to go with a guide who could tell me more about it. What a great guide we had in Greg, who is very knowledgeable about the gorge, as well as all the surrounding areas. We had a nice informative afternoon cruise, followed by a slow and scenic trip back to camp, with sundowners on the lake to end off the trip.

Changa Safari Camp is a fantastic lodge, offering something for everyone who wants to spend time in the Kariba area. You can do as much or as little as you want, with the infinity pool being a huge hit and talking point. If you are planning a trip to Kariba, I would highly recommend making time to get out to Changa for yourself, you never know what you are going to see there, take it from me, I should know!

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